4.Dec.1996 Cruise Control FAQ for Golf /// and Jetta /// ============================================================================= By: Alastair M. Bor bor@world.std.com http://world.std.com/~bor/ ============================================================================= The following is not arranged in the traditional FAQ format, but contains all sorts of information on the A3 cruise control unit, including the retrofitting of the factory cruise module to cars that did not come from the factory so endowed. Some of the below information is derived from the CRUISE CONTROL INSTALLATION/OPERATION MANUAL from Volkswagen. (Form #2774 for '93-'95 cars, and the updated Form #2785 which is for '95+ cars). Thanks go to Dan Reagan for his assistance in editing this document. ============================================================================= **FEATURES** The factory cruise module has the following features. All of the following functions are controlled by a slide switch or push-button switch located on the turn signal/high-beam stalk. I found an undocumented "feature" which will disconnect the cruise mode if you are cruising and you turn on your emergency flashers. Dan Reagan confirmed that this feature exists in both versions of the kit. 1) ON/OFF This feature is controlled by the slide-switch. Sliding the switch to the left will turn the unit on, sliding it to the right will turn it off. 2) SET With the above switch set to ON, you can set any speed above 28mph by depressing the pushbutton switch at the end of the stalk. The limitation is that the speed must be greater than 28mph and the engine speed must not exceed 4700RPM. If you have a manual transmission, there as an additional limitation that the engine RPM must not increase at more than 1500RPM/sec. 3) COAST With the speed set, holding the SET button will lower the speed of the vehicle. When the switch is released, the speed is set at the new lower speed. 4) TAP DOWN With the speed set, depressing the SET button for less than one second will decrease vehicle speed by 1mph. 5) SET AT HIGHER SPEED With the speed set, depressing the accelerator pedal such that the vehicle speed is increased by more than 3mph, pressing the SET button will set the new cruise speed at the higher speed. 6) ACCELERATE With the speed set, sliding the ON/OFF switch _past the ON position_ will cause the vehicle to accelerate at 1.4mph/sec. When the switch is released the higher speed will be set. 7) TAP UP With the speed set, sliding the ON/OFF switch _past the ON position_ for less than 1 second will cause the vehicle to accelerate by 1MPH. 8) RESUME With the speed previously set then disabled by the BRAKE or CLUTCH pedal sliding the ON/OFF switch _past the ON position_ for less than 1 second will cause the vehicle to resume the previously set speed. ============================================================================= **THE KIT** Retrofitting the Golf /// and Jetta /// vehicles with the factory cruise control is possible for model years begining in 1993, but different model years need different kits. Moreover, manual transmission cars need a clutch pedal switch which is not provided in the kit. This switch will disengage the cruise control system if the clutch pedal is depressed. Manual Transmission: Up to VIN# 1H-S-012882 needs ZVW 171 001 (kit) and ZVW 171 002 (switch) After VIN# 1H-S-012882 needs ZVW 171 001A (kit) and ZVW 171 002 (switch) Automatic Transmission: Up to VIN# 1H-S-052044 needs ZVW 171 001 (kit) After VIN# 1H-S-052044 needs ZVW 171 001A (kit) This kit is for the 2.0L engine. The VR6 engine uses a different kit. Of course, all VR6 equiped vehicles sold in the US currently come with cruise control. The kit comes in a shoe-sized box and contains the following: 1) Cruise control computer/servo motor/throttle cable assembly. 2) Wiring loom. Directly plugs into #1 above. At the other end there are a bunch of wires which are to be wired into the fuse box. No cutting of wires required. 3) OEM Cruise control switch (replaces existing turn signal stalk). 4) Wirerope retainer (keeps accel. cable from tangling with cruise cable). 5) Five T-tap connectors (so you do not need to cut any wires) 6) Two brass airbag bolts (the originals must be discarded when removed). ******** The newer kit (ZVW 171 001A) may not come with these bolts. ******** The Bentley book makes no warning about re-using the bolts **NOTE** and according to Dan Reagan, his dealer told him that they ******** re-use the bolts whenever the airbag is removed not as a ******** result of an accident. 7) Four tie-wraps (to tie things down) For the cruise kit, I paid US$244.13 and for the clutch switch US$14.93 which brings the total to US$259.06. I got my kit at Timmons VW who advertises in European Car magazine. Mention the ad and you get 10% off. Their phone number is (310)595-4601. NOTE: I am just a satisfied customer, I do not and never have worked for them. ============================================================================= **INSTALLATION** On a scale of 1-10, (1=installing a VR6 engine, 10=installing a light-bulb) the installation is about a 7. It took a friend and myself 6 hours to install the kit, however we were working very slowly and carefully to make a really nice installation. Dan Reagan said he did it in 4.5 to 5 hours. The following is a brief description of the installation process including comments on some difficulties that we encountered. Tools Recommended: ----------------- * Ratchet set: 24mm (or 15/16") socket for steering wheel. 7mm socket for splash guard. 10mm deep socket for coolant reservoir. (this was also the size of the negative battery terminal bolt I think) Optionally, you can just pull up on the coolant reservoir to remove it without the bracket. * Screw Drivers: #2 phillips (I think) for splash guard and trim bits. medium size straight blade (3/16" or so) for switch assembly. * Torque wrench. (for steering wheel and probably most of the other fasteners if you feel like it. I think that Bentley has specs for just about all of them. The airbag bolts were 6.5 Nm) * Wire cutters. (for tie-wraps) * Pliers. (definitely needle nose, regular ones are good idea too) * Feeler gauges: At least a .006 and a .022 one. (a whole set is a good idea) * Hex-key set: 1/8" for the cruise module set screws. 5mm for the throttle bolts and the airbag bolts. /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\ | NOTICE: I take no responsibility for any damage or injury of any kind | | that may be caused by following these instructions. | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1) MOUNTING THE CRUISE MODULE TO THE VEHICLE You must remove the splash panel which is located underneath the car, in front of the LEFT (left=driver's side) front wheel. You can simplify the removal by first turning the steering wheel to full left lock. Mine was attached with two phillips screws and two 7mm hex bolts. After removing the splash panel, you slide the cruise module into the cavity and affix it to the body with the supplied bracket. No drilling/cutting is required it just "clips" to the existing sheet-metal and is held on by two set screws which require a 1/8" hex key wrench. HASSLES/PROBLEMS: The picture supplied by VW to help you find the mounting location is taken from the _bottom_ of the car. It took me a few minutes to realize this. The picture in Dan's instruction book was printed backwards. 2) ATTACHING CRUISE CABLE TO THROTTLE You route the cruise cable next to the battery, over the coolant hoses, then to the trottle body. In the older kit, you remove a spring clip and slip the cruise cable over the existing accelerator cable. Snap the spring-clip back over the two cables. If you have the newer kit, the spring clip assembly is replaced by a labyrinth arrangement. In this newer setup, the cruise cable hooks in about .25" below the end of the throttle cable and is secured by a tie wrap. This marks probably the most significant difference between the older and the newer kit. Then, using a 5mm hex key, remove the accelerator cable bracket bolt and stack the cruise cable bracket on top. Then re-install the the bolt. The next step is to install the wirerope retainer by removing a bolt on the throttle body. Again, use the 5mm hex key to remove a bolt on the throttle-body that also serves as a mounting location for one of the existing engine-bay connectors. Remove the bolt, stack the wirerope retainer onto what is already there, and re-install the bolt. You have to gap the distance between the wirerope retainer and the throttle pulley (.006" go, .022" nogo). HASSLES/PROBLEMS: The bolt on which you mount the wirerope retainer may be hard to reach. It might be easier if you removed the air intake housing. Neither I nor Dan had to do this, however. 3) PASSING WIRING HARNESS TO INTERIOR There are two grommets next to the brake booster, remove the larger one. Punch a hold in the larger one and cut from the inside of the hole all the way to the outside of the grommet. Pass the harness through the hole into the passenger compartment. On the inside, you will find the hole slightly to the left of the clutch pedal. Dan was able to avoid cuting through to the outside of the gromet by sliting a large hole in the middle. HASSLES/PROBLEMS: You basically need to remove the coolant reservoir to reach the grommet. It is really burried deep. Passing the harness through the hole may take two people. Both Dan and myself had someone help to pass the harness through. Its possible to do it alone, but doing so may increase the level of stress requried of the job. 4) ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS You will need to disconnect the battery. If you have the stock radio, be sure you know the code so you can disable the anti-theft after you reconnect the battery. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. Insulate the cable end to prevent it from accidentally touching the battery post. Remove knee bolster (6 screws) and underdash cover (2 screws). You can now access the fuse panel. Flip up the two plastic tabs on the fuse panel bracket and you will be able to remove the fuse panel. Using the T-taps and the wiring diagram in the installation instructions, wire in the six relevant wires from the loom (Ignition Power, Brake +, Brake -, Tachometer, Vehicle Speed Sensor, Ground). HASSLES/PROBLEMS: Oh Boy... this was tough. First, the fuse/relay panel diagram in the instruction sheet is UPSIDE DOWN!. This may be corrected in later versions of the instruction sheet, so check first. Second, the function chart refers to wires with certain color codes (ie: red with black stripe), however on my car, some of the codes were non-existant. Instead I had to find the labeled connector on the back of the fuse panel. My car is a '94 and most of the wiring is white (not color coded), on Dan's car (a '95) only the tachometer plug was white, the rest being properly coded. You may also notice that VW does not supply enough "slack" in the wiring of the fuse/box to fully pull it out, so you basically can hardly see what you are doing. This was the worst part of the installation. 5) CLUTCH SWITCH INSTALLATION (Manual Transmission Only) Take the clutch switch and just stick it in a hole that VW has conveniently pre-drilled in the car. This is a snap to install. You then simply wire the appropriate wires from the loom to this switch. If you have an auto trans. then the clutch switch connector is jumpered. HASSLES/PROBLEMS: None! 6) RETROFITTING OE COLUMN SWITCH Disconnect the battery (it should already have been disconnected). Loosen the two brass airbag retaining bolts on the back of the steering wheel with a 5mm hex-key. The airbag will simply come out... Remove the single connector that goes to the airbag (PULL IT UP, NOT SIDEWAYS). Remove the 2 phillips screws that hold the upper and lower trim covers and remove them. Slide the foam cover for the airbag module connector aside and unplug the connector. NOTE: MOVE THE FOAM, DO NOT TRY TO DISCONNECT THE BLACK CONNECTOR, THE ONE YOU WANT TO DISCONNECT IS UNDER THE FOAM. Remove the steering wheel nut with a 24mm socket (note the alignment marks) and then the steering wheel. Remove the 3 flat-head screws that hold the turn-signal switch, remove, and replace with the new switch provided. Connect new switch to appropriate location on cruise control harness. Re-install the steering wheel and torque to 50Nm. Both kits warn that you must reinstall the airbag with *NEW* brass bolts. My kit was supplied with these, but Dan's was not. The Bentley manual does not mention anything about this. Dan asked his dealer about it and they said that they reuse the bolts if the airbag did not deploy in an accident. HASSLES/PROBLEMS: To disconnect the airbag you have to disconnect two connectors. The first one pulls STRAIGHT OUT from the center of the bag, the other is below a piece of foam. There were no real problems here. Be sure to note the alignment marks on the steering wheel/steering wheel hub so that you can reinstall the wheel properly. In the Bentley manual, the discussion of the airbag begins on page 69-11. I will summarize some of the warnings below: * Always disconnect the negative (-) battery cable before working on or near the airbag. No waiting time is necessary after disconnecting the battery before working on the airbag system. * When reconnecting the battery, there must be NO person inside the vehicle. * If the ignition is NOT switched on BEFORE connecting the ground strap, the airbag control unit could be damaged. * DO NOT leave an undeployed airbag unit unattended. * Always place an airbag unit that has been removed from its packaging with the padded side facing upward. * If the airbag unit or airbag control module has been dropped from a height of .5 meter (19.7") or more, DO NOT install. 7) BUTTON UP Reconnect/re-install everything you removed. Dont be scared if the alarm sounds when you first connect the battery, it will go out on its own after about 1 second. Start up the car and go for a CRUISE! If you have any comments or questions regarding this document, you can e-mail me at bor@world.std.com =============================================================================